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Underpinning in Warragul and Drouin

Strengthening or deepening the footings under a brick wall or a slab that has dropped, so the cracking stops. Where West Gippsland ground is clay or fill it is the brick veneer and slab answer to the question stumps answer under a weatherboard.

What underpinning is

Underpinning puts new support under an existing footing. The usual method is to dig a pit beside the footing, excavate beneath it in short sections, and pour mass concrete or set a reinforced pad under it so the wall is carried on ground that does not move. Where the ground is deeper or softer, piers are bored to firm strata and the footing is bridged across them. Resin injection, which lifts a slab by expanding foam under it, is a separate method with its own uses and limits. All of them need a building permit, because the Commission's permit practice note names underpinning as work that is never exempt as repair, and in practice the building surveyor asks for a structural engineer's design before permitting any of them.

Underpinning is for houses that do not sit on stumps: brick veneer on strip footings from the 1960s on, double brick, and slab-on-ground from the 1980s and every new estate since. A weatherboard on stumps that has dropped needs reblocking, not underpinning. Some houses need both: a 1920s bungalow with a brick front verandah on piers and a timber floor on stumps behind it.

Why footings move here

Three reasons, and the inspection has to find out which.

Reactive clay. Clay that swells when wet and shrinks when dry lifts and drops the edge of a footing with the seasons. The signs are cracks that open in late summer and close by spring, worst on the side of the house that gets the afternoon sun or has a big tree drawing water. The Moe River flats and some of the lower ground around Drouin, Trafalgar and Yarragon can be this kind of ground. The exact site class is set by a geotechnical test to AS 2870; soil testers working in Warragul say the ground changes from suburb to suburb, so nobody can tell you the class from the street.

Water. A downpipe discharging at the corner of the house, a broken stormwater drain, a garden bed built up against the wall, or a block that drains toward the house. Water softens the ground under one part of the footing and that part drops. It is the most common cause in a wet district and the cheapest to fix, which is why drainage is checked before anything is designed.

Fill and old ground. Houses built on filled ground, on the edge of a cut on a sloping block, or over an old drain or dam. Parts of the newer estates sit on ground that was shaped before the house went up, and settlement of fill shows up years later as a corner dropping.

The outside corner of a 1970s brick veneer house in Warragul during underpinning, a shored pit dug beside the strip footing with water in the bottom, a new mass concrete pad poured under one section and reinforcing bars ready for the next, and a stepped crack in the brown brickwork above
Warragul. One section poured, the next cut. Never the whole footing at once

How a job runs

  1. Inspection and levels. Crack pattern mapped, floor levels taken, drainage traced, trees noted. Often a geotechnical engineer takes a borehole or two to classify the soil.
  2. Engineer's design. A structural engineer specifies the method, the depth, the pad sizes or pier spacing and the sequence. This is the document the building surveyor permits.
  3. Building permit. From a private registered building surveyor, with the engineer's design attached. Report and consent from council is added where the house is on flood-prone land or the work is near an easement.
  4. Drainage first. Where water is the cause, the downpipes, stormwater and grading are fixed before or with the underpinning. Underpinning a wall the yard is still soaking is wasted.
  5. Excavate in sequence. Pits are dug in short bays in the order the engineer sets, so the wall is never undermined along its length. Each bay is poured and cured before the next is opened.
  6. Lift, pack, backfill. Where the design calls for it the footing is jacked back toward level before the pad takes the load. The pits are backfilled and compacted. The engineer or surveyor inspects, and the permit is closed.
Underpinning fixes where the house sits. It does not fix why the ground moved, and the quote should say which of the two it is doing.

What West Gippsland adds

Wet pits. Dig a metre down beside a footing in Drouin in August and the pit fills. Pumping, shoring and pouring between rain is part of the job and part of the price, which is why underpinning here is cheaper to do in late summer.

New estates on shaped ground. Warragul's precinct structure plan allows for 12,500 new dwellings and Drouin's for 7,400, and the estates built since 2010 are mostly slab-on-ground on lots that were cut and filled to suit. Where an edge drops, the cause is usually drainage or fill, and resin or pad underpinning on the engineer's advice is the fix.

Sloping blocks. Houses on the Strzelecki foothills behind Trafalgar and Yarragon, and on the hill blocks around Neerim South, sit on cut-and-fill platforms. The downhill footings are on fill and are the ones that move. The hills page covers it: restumping and underpinning in the hills.

What underpinning cannot fix

Underpinning cannot stop reactive clay reacting. It carries the footing below the layer that moves, which is different from making the layer stop. It cannot close cracks in brickwork by itself; the lift may close some, and the rest are repointed afterwards. It cannot be designed by a builder: the building surveyor permits it on the engineer's design. And it cannot fix a slab that is heaving because a tree was removed and the clay is rewetting, which is a wait and a drainage question before it is a concrete one.

Written October 2026

Check the current rules before you rely on this

This page describes how underpinning is approved and carried out in Baw Baw Shire. It describes the rules in general terms as they stood in October 2026. Standards, forms, thresholds and fines change.

The authoritative sources are Building and Plumbing Commission practice note BP-01, when is a building permit required, Building Act 1993, Baw Baw Shire Council on building permits, Baw Baw Shire Council on report and consent and A1 Soil Testing on soil testing in Warragul. Where anything here differs from those sources, they are right and we are not.

We are not building surveyors, engineers, planners or lawyers. For what applies to your house, ask a registered building surveyor or ring Baw Baw Shire Council on 03 5624 2411.

Accurate at the time of writing, October 2026. Always check the source before relying on it.

Questions

Common questions

Do I need an engineer for underpinning?

Yes. Underpinning changes the footings, the building surveyor asks for a structural design before issuing the permit, and in practice the engineer also decides whether underpinning is the fix at all or whether drainage, a tree or a plumbing leak is the real cause.

Is underpinning the same as restumping?

No. Restumping replaces the stumps under a timber floor. Underpinning strengthens the footings under a wall or a slab. A weatherboard on stumps is restumped; a brick veneer on a strip footing or a slab home is underpinned. Some older houses need both.

What causes a brick veneer to crack in Drouin?

Usually footings moving on wet or reactive ground. The lower ground around Drouin and across the Moe River flats stays wet through winter and can swell and shrink with the seasons, and a footing that is not deep enough rides it. Water from downpipes, broken drains and garden beds against the wall is the other common cause, and it is cheaper to fix.

Does underpinning need a building permit in Victoria?

Yes. The Building and Plumbing Commission's practice note on when a building permit is required says the exemption for repairs does not include underpinning or replacement of footings. The permit comes from a private registered building surveyor with the engineer's design attached.

What is resin injection and does it work?

Expanding polyurethane resin pumped under a slab lifts it and fills voids. It suits slab homes where the slab has dropped and the ground under it is otherwise stable. It does not suit a strip footing that needs to be carried to deeper ground, and it does not fix drainage. The engineer decides.

How long does underpinning take?

Most houses need a handful of pits and a week to two on site, worked in sequence so the wall is never undermined. Wet weather slows it because the pits fill. The engineer's design and the permit come before that.

Will the cracks close?

Some will, as the footing is lifted toward level. Others stay and are repointed or patched afterwards. The aim is to stop them moving, not to make them disappear.

Can underpinning be done in winter here?

It can, with pumping and shoring, but late summer and autumn are better. The ground is at its driest, the pits stay open, and the engineer gets a truer picture of the dry-season position of the footing.

Next step

Send a few photos and a town

The worst room, the outside of the house and, if you can get to it, a stump or two under the floor. That is usually enough for a price range before anyone visits.